No better place than Madinah

Photo: The minarets of the Prophet's mosque. © Fareena Alam. Please do not re-use without permission and proper credit.

Bismillahir Rahmanir Raheem

There is no city better than Madinah for the Deen Intensive Rihla. I had been here just a day when I felt a softening of my heart, the dhikr easier on my tongue and the spiritual satiation overwhelming. Like previous Rihlas, we were in the company of our teachers, Shaykh Abdallah Al-Qadi, Shaykh Muhammad Yaqoubi, Shaykh Hamza Yusuf and Shaykh Jamal Zhahabi but it's different this time.

Even if the schedule for the classes were to fall apart, it's no big loss. The participants are happy enough spending hours praying and engaging in dhikr at the Prophet's صلي الله عليه و سلم mosque. So far, the program has focussed on learning the Seerah, studying the Shamail and visiting places of significance.

May Allah bless Shaykh Abdallah Al-Qadi. We have been given special access and tours to some of Islam's holiest sites in Madinah (and Inshallah, Makkah between 21st-26th July). We have visited Masjid Quba, Masjid Qiblatayn and Mount Uhud. We have been given a full tour of the underground command centre that oversees the smooth running of the Prophet's صلي الله عليه و سلم Mosque. Did you know that the conditioned air that keep pilgrims cool in the masjid is piped from an air conditioning system 7 km away? Any closer, the noise from the system would be too loud to bear. We were shown how the sliding domes work, how many tonnes of zam zam are consumed everyday (3000), how many people tirelessly upkeep the masjid (it is spotless at any given time) and so on.

At every place of visit, we were thoroughly briefed by Shaykh Hamza who either spoke to us himself or eloquently translated from a local guide.

The highlight of the Rihla so far has been our visit to the Rawdah. We were given the opportunity to visit the Rawdah privately one evening after the mosque had been closed to the public. I can safely say people wait a lifetime for opportunities like this. We spent 90 min there... Most of us were awed... shocked actually... we said very little. We forgot anyone else was there as many of us wept quietly and uncontrolably. I missed the Prophet (صلي الله عليه و سلم) so much that evening. I wept out of thankfulness. I was there because Allah and His Messenger had invited me. What an honour. I was not deserving of this gift but Allah gives from His infinite Mercy and Love for us, and not according to what we deserve. We were given time to pray on the beautiful green carpet that demarcates the area which is literally a piece of Jannah.

What has been consistent during this Rihla, and really, at most Rihlas is that the womenfolk are treated very well. The field trips, and the visit to the Rawdah are always well-managed so that the women don't feel left out. At the Rawdah, the women were given the first opportunity to pray on the left hand side - closest to the Prophet (صلي الله عليه و سلم) and his companions, while the men were given the opportunity to pray on the right hand side, at the Prophet's Mihrab (صلي الله عليه و سلم) and where the palm tree (which wept when he stopped using it as his mimbar) was. Then we swapped. The women then prayed at the Mihrab and behind Aisha's (ra) pillar.

The two groups were also alternately taken to the front of the grave where we stood between the Prophet (صلي الله عليه و سلم) and the Qibla and conveyed our salaams (we recited after a Shaykh who works for the Haram). This was unprecendented, of course. Women are never EVER allowed in that part of the mosque. We are ever so fortunate... the fruits of keeping the company of good people, no doubt.

I made dua for everyone I could think off once we returned to the green carpeted area for the last few moments. For my family, parents and ancesters to my friends, everyone who asked me to make dua for them, people who have been good to me, those who have been not-so-good to me. At moments like that, your heart is filled with such intense generosity and love for humanity, even those who have hurt you immensely. Allah's mercy is so vast, it is not too much to pray He forgive even the worst human beings. Who knows, I may be among them on the Day when I will have nothing more than my love for Him and His Messenger (صلي الله عليه و سلم).

More later. I actually love getting up for tahajjud prayers now but a girl needs her sleep.

- f -